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Inom avdelningen intressanta b\u00f6cker fr\u00e5n f\u00f6rr, finns det en del unika publikationer som avviker fr\u00e5n det som man nuf\u00f6rtiden hittar i bokhyllorna. Receptb\u00f6cker publiceras nuf\u00f6rtiden i massor, men d\u00e4remot hittar man s\u00e4llan b\u00f6cker med recept p\u00e5 parfymer och andra historiskt \u00e4dla hantverk. Parfymer h\u00e4rstammar \u00e4nda fr\u00e5n tiden d\u00e5 den primitiva m\u00e4nniskan l\u00e4rde sig utnyttja elden, medan det redan i de allra \u00e4ldsta religionerna f\u00f6rekom br\u00e4nning av aromatiska \u00e4mnen till gudarnas \u00e4ra.<\/p>\n

\u00c4ven bland egyptierna br\u00e4nde man aromatiska \u00e4mnen f\u00f6r att \u00e4ra solguden Re och mumierna behandlades med s\u00e4rskilda parfymer och balsamer. Fr\u00e5n denna tidsera kom ocks\u00e5 en mycket tidig Eau de Toilette, kyphi, som inneh\u00f6ll honung, vin, druvor, myrra, ginst, saffran och enb\u00e4r. Med andra ord \u00e4r m\u00e4nniskans experimenterande med dofter lika gammal som m\u00e4nniskorna sj\u00e4lva.<\/p>\n

Dofternas \u00e5rhundrade framf\u00f6r andra ben\u00e4mns ofta 1600-talet, d\u00e5 man f\u00f6rs\u00f6kte r\u00e5da bot p\u00e5 bristande hygien med intensivt parfymerande av bland annat solfj\u00e4drar, brevpapper, peruker och tv\u00e5lar. Under 1700-talet och speciellt andra h\u00e4lften av \u00e5rhundradet blev tendensen mot mildare och mer blommiga dofter tydligare. Man ville ha dofter av citrus, \u00f6rter, eller geranium och Marie-Antoinette inf\u00f6rde \u00e4nnu l\u00e4ttare och blommigare parfymer. Det var ocks\u00e5 fr\u00e5n denna tidsera som de st\u00f6rre parfymerierna b\u00f6rjade komma in i bilden, med Fargeon, Lubin och Houbigant i spetsen. Av dessa har Houbigant \u00e4nnu ig\u00e5ng sin produktion.<\/p>\n

I mitten av 1700-talet f\u00f6ddes ocks\u00e5 en av parfymerikonstens \u00e4ldsta f\u00f6ljeslagare till v\u00e5ra dagar, eau-de-colognen. Det \u00e4r ocks\u00e5 inom denna kategori tv\u00e5 av de \u00e4ldsta parfymerna som \u00e4nnu \u00e4r i produktion h\u00e4rstammar. Mer om dessa lite senare i texten.<\/p>\n

Tillverka din egen parfym<\/h2>\n

Hur g\u00e5r du tillv\u00e4ga om du vill tillverka din egen parfym? Av f\u00f6rst\u00e5eliga orsaker \u00e4r det inte det enklaste att hitta originalrecepten till popul\u00e4ra parfymer – inte ens till de mest klassiska parfymerna<\/a> genom tiderna. M\u00e5nga parfymhus vill h\u00e5lla dessa som en hemlighet fr\u00e5n den stora massan, delvis p\u00e5 grund av den mystik detta skapar, men ocks\u00e5 naturligtvis p\u00e5 grund av aff\u00e4rshemligheter.<\/p>\n

P\u00e5 beskrivningen av parfymer finns naturligtvis de huvudsakliga ingredienserna och till vilken doftfamilj parfymerna tillh\u00f6r, men som med det mesta h\u00e4r i v\u00e4rlden ligger sj\u00e4lva hemligheten i detaljerna och hur doften \u00e4r sammansatt. Det som saknas i beskrivningen \u00e4r till den exakta proportionen av de olika ingredienserna, vilket \u00e4r en av de viktigaste delarna i konsten att g\u00f6ra parfymer.<\/p>\n

\"original<\/p>\n

I boken Perfumes and their preparation<\/a> fr\u00e5n \u00e5r 1892, bjuder kemidoktorn George William Askinson (ocks\u00e5 sj\u00e4lv parfymtillverkare) in oss till den \u00e4dla konsten att tillverka parfym. En unik bok, b\u00e5de d\u00e5 den publicerades och \u00e4nnu idag. Det \u00e4r n\u00e4mligen inte ofta de recept som de stora parfymhusen anv\u00e4nt sig av publicerats i bokform. L\u00e5t vara att inget specifikt parfymm\u00e4rke eller parfymhus n\u00e4mns heller i denna bok, men i flera av fallen kr\u00e4vs det inget stort detektivarbete f\u00f6r att h\u00e4rleda dofterna till sin originaltillverkare.<\/p>\n

Parfymkonsten har utvecklas en hel del sedan dessa dagar, med alla syntetiska mysk- och fruktdofter och aldehyder, men det \u00e4r trots det en unik bok som har m\u00e5nga intressanta delar i hur man g\u00e5r tillv\u00e4ga vid parfymtillverkning.<\/p>\n

\"k\u00f6lnisch<\/p>\n

K\u00f6lnisch Wasser fr\u00e5n M\u00e4urer & Wirtz<\/h2>\n

Bland de parfymer med flest recept i boken \u00e5terfinns Cologne Water, som \u00e4ven \u00e4r k\u00e4nd som K\u00f6lnisch Wasser. En av de \u00e4ldsta parfymerna som \u00e4nnu tillverkas enligt originalreceptet. 711 fr\u00e5n M\u00e4urer & Wirtz<\/a> \u00e4r det traditionella s\u00e5 kallade K\u00f6lnisch Wasser, som har tillverkats i K\u00f6ln \u00e4nda sedan \u00e5r 1799. Det \u00e4r ocks\u00e5 den enda parfymen som f\u00e5r anv\u00e4nda uttrycket Original Eau de Cologne med h\u00e4nvisning till dess geografiska ursprung. Samma formel har anv\u00e4nts i \u00f6ver 200 \u00e5r, s\u00e5 d\u00e4rf\u00f6r borde formeln nedan vara ungef\u00e4r den samma som man anv\u00e4nder sig av \u00e4nnu idag.<\/p>\n

\"florida<\/p>\n

Florida Water fr\u00e5n Murray & Lanman<\/h2>\n

Den amerikanska versionen av det som man kallar Cologne Water, eller Eau de Cologne, \u00e4r Florida Water<\/a>. Receptet p\u00e5 denna parfym finns ocks\u00e5 med i boken och hittas nedanf\u00f6r den tyska varianten nedan. Denna parfym har samma basnoter av citrus, men med betoning p\u00e5 s\u00f6t apelsin snarare \u00e4n p\u00e5 citron och neroli som i den tyska varianten. H\u00e4r finns ocks\u00e5 kryddigare noter av lavendel och kryddnejlika inkluderade.  Namnet h\u00e4nvisar till myten om ”ungdomens k\u00e4lla”, som s\u00e4gs finnas i Florida.<\/p>\n

Enligt f\u00f6retaget Murray & Lanman, som numera s\u00e4ljer Florida Water, anv\u00e4nder man sig \u00e4nnu idag av originalformeln som lanserades \u00e5r 1808. Florida Water \u00e4r liksom den tyska versionen en unisexdoft. Speciellt i slutet av 1800-talet var den popul\u00e4r i USA och marknadsf\u00f6rdes som ”The Richest of all Perfumes” och ”The most Popular Perfume in the World”. Vissa av de Viktorianska handb\u00f6ckerna g\u00e4llande etikettregler varnade unga damer f\u00f6r det ”offensiva” intryck som denna starka parfym kunde ge.<\/p>\n

Nedan \u00e4r ett utdrag fr\u00e5n boken med de n\u00e4mnda parfymerna p\u00e5 originalspr\u00e5ket engelska. 1 oz eller ounce \u00e4r en m\u00e5ttenhet f\u00f6r volym och motsvarar ungef\u00e4r 28,4 ml. Jag rekommenderar dock inte att man f\u00f6rs\u00f6ker sig p\u00e5 att r\u00f6ra ihop dessa satser i k\u00f6ket, eftersom det av m\u00e4ngden att d\u00f6ma verkar bli en rej\u00e4l sats. De n\u00e4mnda parfymerna \u00e4r heller inte direkt dyra att k\u00f6pa nuf\u00f6rtiden. Men som inspiration \u00e4r det v\u00e4ldigt roligt att se vilket hantverk det egentligen inneb\u00e4r att framst\u00e4lla en parfym.<\/p>\n

Som en parentes kan \u00e4ven n\u00e4mnas att Madame de Pompadour, officiell \u00e4lskarinna till kung Ludvig XV av Frankrike fr\u00e5n 1745 till sin d\u00f6d 1764, som en av sina favoritdofter hade det som man kallade ”Portugalvatten” eller Eau de Portugal. En blandning av apelsin, citron, bergamott och ros. Receptet finns l\u00e4ngst ned i inl\u00e4gget.<\/p>\n

Cologne Water (Eau de Cologne).<\/span><\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

This famous perfume, which was first made in Cologne on the Rhine, its formula being kept secret, can be produced anywhere of the same quality as the original. In order to obtain a first-class product, it is necessary, besides using the finest oils\u2014a matter of course for all fine perfumes\u2014to observe another special point. Every Cologne water contains oils of the citron group which develop their best odors only in true181<\/span> spirit of wine. Unless an alcohol distilled from wine is used, it will be impossible to make a Cologne water of really first quality. While it is possible to make a good cologne with grain or potato spirit, especially if highly rectified, comparison with one prepared from pure spirit of wine will at once show a marked difference. The small amount of \u0153nanthic ether, hardly demonstrable by chemical tests but present in every spirit of wine, exerts a decided influence on the flavor.<\/em><\/p>\n

Cologne water of the most superior and incomparable quality is made by dissolving the essential oils, excepting the oils of rosemary and neroli, in the alcohol and distilling it, the other oils being added to the distillate.<\/em><\/p>\n

A very large number of formulas for the preparation of Cologne water have been published of which we subjoin a few. We have purposely omitted those containing many essential oils, as experience has taught us that they are of little value; for it is not the number of oils that determines the fineness of a perfume, but the manner in which certain odors are combined.<\/em><\/p>\n

A. Finest Cologne Water (Eau de Cologne Sup\u00e9rieure).<\/span><\/em><\/h4>\n
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Oil of bergamot<\/em><\/td>\n2\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of lemon (hand-pressed)<\/em><\/td>\n6 oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of neroli p\u00e9tale<\/em><\/td>\n3\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of neroli bigarade<\/em><\/td>\n1\u00bc oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of rosemary<\/em><\/td>\n2\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Alcohol<\/em><\/td>\n30 qts.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<\/div>\n

B. Cologne Water (Second Quality).<\/span><\/em><\/h4>\n
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Oil of bergamot<\/em><\/td>\n4\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of lemon<\/em><\/td>\n4\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of neroli p\u00e9tale<\/em><\/td>\n\u00be oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of orange peel<\/em><\/td>\n4\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of petit grain<\/em><\/td>\n2\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of rosemary<\/em><\/td>\n2\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Alcohol<\/em><\/td>\n30 qts.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<\/div>\n

C. Cologne Water (ordinary).<\/span><\/em><\/h4>\n
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Oil of bergamot<\/em><\/td>\n7 oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of lemon<\/em><\/td>\n3\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of lavender<\/em><\/td>\n3\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Alcohol<\/em><\/td>\n30 qts.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<\/div>\n

D. Cologne Water.<\/span><\/em><\/h4>\n
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Oil of bergamot<\/em><\/td>\n1\u00be oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of lemon<\/em><\/td>\n3\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of lavender<\/em><\/td>\n150 grains.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of neroli<\/em><\/td>\n\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of rosemary<\/em><\/td>\n75 grains.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Alcohol<\/em><\/td>\n30 qts.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<\/div>\n

E. Cologne Water.<\/span><\/em><\/h4>\n
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Oil of bergamot<\/em><\/td>\n2 oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of lemon<\/em><\/td>\n1 oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of lavender<\/em><\/td>\n\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of melissa<\/em><\/td>\n\u00bc oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of neroli<\/em><\/td>\n\u00bc oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Alcohol<\/em><\/td>\n30 qts.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<\/div>\n

F. Cologne Water.<\/span><\/em><\/h4>\n
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Oil of bergamot<\/em><\/td>\n3\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of lemon<\/em><\/td>\n\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of lavender<\/em><\/td>\n\u00bc oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of melissa<\/em><\/td>\n\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of neroli<\/em><\/td>\n\u00bc oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Alcohol<\/em><\/td>\n30 qts.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<\/div>\n

G. Cologne Water.<\/span><\/em><\/h4>\n
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Oil of bergamot<\/em><\/td>\n1 lb.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of lemon<\/em><\/td>\n1 lb.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of lavender<\/em><\/td>\n6\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of neroli<\/em><\/td>\n\u00be oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of petit grain<\/em><\/td>\n1\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of orange peel<\/em><\/td>\n1 lb.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of rosemary<\/em><\/td>\n150 grains.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Alcohol<\/em><\/td>\n30 qts.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<\/div>\n

H. Cologne Water.<\/span><\/em><\/h4>\n
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Oil of bergamot<\/em><\/td>\n2\u00bc oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of cajuput<\/em><\/td>\n\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of lemon<\/em><\/td>\n4\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of lavender<\/em><\/td>\n6\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of neroli<\/em><\/td>\n2\u00bcoz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of orange peel<\/em><\/td>\n4\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of petit grain<\/em><\/td>\n\u00bd oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Orange-flower water<\/em><\/td>\n1 qt.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Alcohol<\/em><\/td>\n30 qts.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<\/div>\n

The numerous formulas show that oils of lemon, bergamot, and orange form normal constituents of every Cologne water; the finer grades always contain, in addition, oils of rosemary and neroli. It is advisable to dissolve the aromatics in very strong alcohol and then to effect the dilution required with orange-flower or rose water. This dilution is also to be employed when a cheaper product is desired.<\/em><\/p>\n

Florida.<\/span><\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Oil of bergamot<\/em><\/td>\n60 grains.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of lemon<\/em><\/td>\n90 grains.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of lavender<\/em><\/td>\n15 grains.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of clove<\/em><\/td>\n8 grains.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Alcohol<\/em><\/td>\n5 qts.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

Eau du Portugal.<\/span><\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Oil of bergamot<\/em><\/td>\n1 oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of lemon<\/em><\/td>\n2\u00bc oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of orange peel<\/em><\/td>\n\u00bd lb.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Oil of rose<\/em><\/td>\n\u00bc oz.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Alcohol<\/em><\/td>\n5 qts.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n
<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Inom avdelningen intressanta b\u00f6cker fr\u00e5n f\u00f6rr, finns det en del unika publikationer som avviker fr\u00e5n det som man nuf\u00f6rtiden hittar i bokhyllorna. Receptb\u00f6cker publiceras…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":20764,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_oct_exclude_from_cache":false,"_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[571],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-20585","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-herrparfymer","post-item","post-even"],"yoast_head":"\nDe \u00e4ldsta parfymerna som \u00e4nnu produceras och deras originalrecept<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Hur tillverkar du din egen parfym? 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