{"id":2427,"date":"2012-04-29T21:10:51","date_gmt":"2012-04-29T19:10:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/gentlemannaguiden.com\/?p=2427"},"modified":"2023-12-28T11:56:01","modified_gmt":"2023-12-28T10:56:01","slug":"den-perfekta-kostymen","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gentlemannaguiden.com\/den-perfekta-kostymen\/","title":{"rendered":"Den perfekta kostymen"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Vad beh\u00f6ver man t\u00e4nka p\u00e5 n\u00e4r man inf\u00f6rskaffar en snygg kostym<\/a>? En kostym \u00e4r det mest klassiska bland plagg i den manliga garderoben. Men eftersom det \u00e4r m\u00e5nga detaljer att t\u00e4nka p\u00e5 f\u00f6r att det skall bli r\u00e4tt \u00e4r det r\u00e4tt utmanande att k\u00f6pa det som passar f\u00f6r ens egna \u00e4ndam\u00e5l. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

H\u00e4r har vi lagt ihop en guide f\u00f6r dig som funderar p\u00e5 att k\u00f6pa en ny kostym.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Klassiskt eller modernt snitt<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Bland trender inom herrmode \u00e4r en \u00e5terg\u00e5ng till en mer klassisk silhuett. Det inneb\u00e4r bland annat att de riktigt tajta kostymerna blivit mindre popul\u00e4ra.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Det betyder dock inte att de \u00e4r helt ute. Det mest beror p\u00e5 den kroppsform du har. Om du har en kroppsform som passar f\u00f6r mer kroppsn\u00e4ra varianter av kostymer \u00e4r det s\u00e5klart att f\u00f6redra.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Passform \u00e4r viktigast<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Oavsett vilken variant av kostym du v\u00e4ljer \u00e4r alltid passformen det viktigaste. Numera har den napolitanska kavajen<\/a> i italiensk stil<\/a> blivit allt popul\u00e4rare. Det g\u00e4ller dock att komma ih\u00e5g den gyllene regeln g\u00e4llande klassiska herrkl\u00e4der<\/a>. Om du inte har v\u00e4lbyggda axlar kan det vara bra att ha axelvaddering som tar fram en mer smickrande kroppsform.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Om du har m\u00f6jlighet, v\u00e4lj en m\u00e5ttsydd kostym<\/a> – eller om budgeten till\u00e5ter, en skr\u00e4ddarsydd kostym<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kroppens symmetri \u00e4r viktig \u00e4ven g\u00e4llande benen. Om du har korta ben i f\u00f6rh\u00e5llande till \u00f6verkroppen g\u00f6r du dig helt enkelt b\u00e4ttre i en kortare modell p\u00e5 kavaj – oavsett vad trenderna s\u00e4ger om l\u00e4ngden p\u00e5 kavajer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00c4rmarna \u00e4r oerh\u00f6rt viktiga<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u00c4nnu g\u00e4llande passform. En av de vanligaste stilsynderna d\u00e5 det g\u00e4ller kostymer \u00e4r passformen g\u00e4llande \u00e4rmarna. Det har blivit betydligt enklare att v\u00e4lja kostym numera eftersom m\u00e5nga modeller har stretchtyg som ger extra sp\u00e4nnvidd i tyget. En kostym f\u00e5r absolut inte ha f\u00f6r l\u00f6sa \u00e4rmar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00c4ven l\u00e4ngden p\u00e5 \u00e4rmarna b\u00f6r vara exakt r\u00e4tt. F\u00f6r l\u00e5nga \u00e4rmar g\u00f6r s\u00e5 att du ser ut som en oerfaren skolpojke som nyss k\u00f6pt sin f\u00f6rsta kostym. F\u00f6r korta \u00e4rmar \u00e4r ocks\u00e5 en stilsynd att beakta. En duktig skr\u00e4ddare kan sy upp \u00e4rmarna till exakt r\u00e4tt l\u00e4ngd. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vilken \u00e4r d\u00e5 den r\u00e4tta l\u00e4ngden? N\u00e5gra centimeter av skjorttyget b\u00f6r vara synlig hela tiden n\u00e4r du b\u00e4r kavaj.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

B\u00e4r inte b\u00e4lte till kostymbyxorna<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

En av de riktiga framstegen i herrmodet<\/a> \u00e4r att vi just nu ser allt fler byxmodeller till kostymer med h\u00f6gre midjor och pressveck. Om du anv\u00e4nder b\u00e4lte till denna typ av byxor beg\u00e5r du definitivt en stilsynd.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Anv\u00e4nd ist\u00e4llet klassiska h\u00e4ngslen f\u00f6r att b\u00e4ra upp byxorna om du vill kl\u00e4 dig klassiskt och framh\u00e4va alla de snygga detaljer som finns p\u00e5 byxorna. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

L\u00e4ngden p\u00e5 byxorna<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

L\u00e4ngden p\u00e5 byxorna \u00e4r ett evigt tvistem\u00e5l. Skall strumporna synas eller inte? Detta \u00e4r till stor del en fr\u00e5ga om tycke och smak.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Enligt klassisk etikett skall inte strumporna vara synliga n\u00e4r du st\u00e5r upp. Det viktigaste att t\u00e4nka p\u00e5 g\u00e4llande kostymbyxor \u00e4r att inte ha f\u00f6r l\u00e5nga byxben. Byxbenen skall ha en naturlig f\u00e4llning och sluta strax \u00f6ver skorna. Undvik veck p\u00e5 byxorna nere vid skorna, det \u00e4r n\u00e4mligen ett tecken p\u00e5 att du b\u00e4r f\u00f6r l\u00e5nga byxor. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I m\u00e5nga stilguider<\/a> finns det ett missf\u00f6rst\u00e5nd som s\u00e4ger att du f\u00f6rl\u00e4nger intrycket av dina ben om du anv\u00e4nder l\u00e4ngre byxben. Det \u00e4r helt fel. Avg\u00f6rande i dessa fall \u00e4r ist\u00e4llet l\u00e4ngden p\u00e5 kavajen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

F\u00e4rger p\u00e5 kostymer<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u00c4ven om passformen \u00e4r det absolut viktigaste, kan du heller inte komma bort fr\u00e5n det faktum att f\u00e4rgkombinationer har betydelse. Om du \u00e4r en person som inte vill k\u00f6pa m\u00e5nga olika kostymer till varje s\u00e4song \u00e4r det klassiska f\u00e4rger som navy och m\u00f6rkgr\u00e5tt som g\u00e4ller.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

M\u00e5nga n\u00e4mner en svart kostym som en av de klassiska f\u00e4rgerna. H\u00e4r \u00e4r vi av en lite annan \u00e5sikt. Svart g\u00f6r sig b\u00e4st till smoking<\/a> eller andra mer formella plagg. Vill du kl\u00e4 dig enligt kl\u00e4dklod m\u00f6rk kostym<\/a> \u00e4r b\u00e5de m\u00f6rkbl\u00e5tt och m\u00f6rkgr\u00e5tt betydligt stiligare alternativ som g\u00f6r det enklare att kombinera b\u00e5de skjortor och slipsar samt skor till.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Svart \u00e4r ingen idealisk f\u00e4rg att kombinera andra kl\u00e4desplagg till eftersom kontrasterna i regel blir f\u00f6r stora oavsett vilka f\u00e4rger du v\u00e4ljer att b\u00e4ra till denna f\u00e4rg p\u00e5 kostymen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

N\u00e5gra ord om accessoarer<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Accessoarer har sin givna plats till kostymen. V\u00e4lj g\u00e4rna en skjorta som till\u00e5ter dig att anv\u00e4nda snygga manschettknappar<\/a>. Det \u00e4r en stilig detalj speciellt till kostymer med klassisk silhuett.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Matcha slipsens bredd med kavajens slag.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Anv\u00e4nd inte matchande n\u00e4sduk<\/a> till slipsen. Anv\u00e4nd ist\u00e4llet br\u00f6stduken som ett s\u00e4tt att variera din kl\u00e4dstil och markera din personlighet. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Anv\u00e4nd g\u00e4rna en klassisk herrklocka<\/a> av tunnare modell. Stora klockor g\u00f6r det inte endast opraktiskt att b\u00e4ra tillsammans med skjorta. Det blir s\u00e4llan snyggt och g\u00f6r s\u00e5 att den ser oproportionell ut i f\u00f6rh\u00e5llande till resten av kl\u00e4dseln.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Vad beh\u00f6ver man t\u00e4nka p\u00e5 n\u00e4r man inf\u00f6rskaffar en snygg kostym? En kostym \u00e4r det mest klassiska bland plagg i den manliga garderoben. Men…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":37835,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_oct_exclude_from_cache":false,"_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[526],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2427","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-herrklader","post-item","post-even"],"yoast_head":"\nDen perfekta kostymen f\u00f6r den moderna gentlemannen<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Vad beh\u00f6ver man t\u00e4nka p\u00e5 n\u00e4r man k\u00f6per en kostym? 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