{"id":68862,"date":"2022-12-02T09:31:40","date_gmt":"2022-12-02T08:31:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gentlemannaguiden.com\/?p=68862"},"modified":"2023-02-20T20:31:51","modified_gmt":"2023-02-20T19:31:51","slug":"cesare-attolini","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gentlemannaguiden.com\/cesare-attolini\/","title":{"rendered":"Cesare Attolini och den napolitanska stilen"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Den 25 november n\u00e5ddes herrmodev\u00e4rlden av den sorgliga nyheten att Cesare Attolini, en legend inom herrmode<\/a>, avlidit<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cesare Attolini var andra generationen Attolini, och tillsammans med sin far Vincenzo ursprunget till det vi nu kallar den \u201cnapolitanska stilen\u201d p\u00e5 kavajer<\/a>. F\u00f6r att hedra Cesares livsg\u00e4rning ber\u00e4ttar vi idag historian om hur familjen Attolini kom att g\u00f6ra Neapels kostymer ber\u00f6mda v\u00e4rlden \u00f6ver.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sm\u00e4ltdegeln Neapel<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Cesare
Cesare Attolinis hemstad Neapel – en historisk sm\u00e4ltdegel. Foto: M\u00e1rton Nov\u00e0k \/ Pexels<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Neapel \u00e4r en av historiens riktiga sm\u00e4ltdeglar. Det b\u00f6rjade med grekerna som grundade \u201cden nya staden\u201d. De f\u00f6ljdes under historiens g\u00e5ng av romare, normander, schwaber, huset Aragon, Frankrike, Spanien, habsburgarna och huset Bourbon innan man till sist blev en del av Italien 1860.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Neapel hade sin historiska h\u00f6jdpunkt under 1600- och 1700-talet, n\u00e4r det var Europas n\u00e4st st\u00f6rsta stad efter Paris. Men man fick aldrig n\u00e5gon riktig industriell revolution och staden f\u00f6ll i fattigdom. Under andra v\u00e4rldskriget skadades staden sv\u00e5rt och arkitekturen blev \u00e4ven den n\u00e5got av ett hopkok, om \u00e4n ett v\u00e4ldigt vackert s\u00e5dant. Maffia, sopskandaler, ficktjuvar och inte minst stadens egna, mycket individualistiska inv\u00e5nare har fortsatt pr\u00e4gla bilden av Neapel som \u201ca beautiful mess\u201d<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Bakgata
Neapel – a beautiful mess. Foto: Jan van Bizar \/ Pexels<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Vincenzo Attolini skapar den napolitanska stilen<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

F\u00f6rutom den v\u00e4rldsk\u00e4nda pizzan var skr\u00e4dderiet en tidig konstform i Neapel. H\u00e4r grundades p\u00e5 1300-talet Italiens \u00e4ldsta skr\u00e5 f\u00f6r skr\u00e4ddare och det s\u00e4gs att konfektionskl\u00e4derna – ready to wear<\/em> – kan ha uppfunnits h\u00e4r. Skr\u00e4ddarna i Neapel kom under ren\u00e4ssansen att kl\u00e4 m\u00e5nga kungahus i Europa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Vincenzo
Cesares far Vincenzo Attolini skapade den napolitanska stilen. Foto: Cesare Attolini<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Tyv\u00e4rr tappade Neapel gradvis sin position till andra rikare st\u00e4der i Italien, som Rom och Milano. D\u00e4rf\u00f6r fick staden aldrig sin egen stil. N\u00e4r Vincenzo Attolini arbetade som skr\u00e4ddare p\u00e5 1930-talet var kostymen fr\u00e5n Neapel fortfarande ofta gjord efter en brittisk f\u00f6rebild med tydligt skulpterade drag och tjocka foder.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vincenzo arbetade som tillsk\u00e4rare f\u00f6r en annan legend inom herrmodet, Rubinacci, n\u00e4r de tillsammans fick id\u00e9n att skapa en kostym som passade b\u00e4ttre f\u00f6r den varma Neapelbukten. Vincenzo tog bort allt vad mellanl\u00e4gg (canvas) och axelvaddar heter, och valde ett tunt och svalt innerfoder. Resultatet var en revolution – en kavaj som var l\u00e4tt som en skjorta och till och med kunde vikas flera g\u00e5nger! Den napolitanska stilen var f\u00f6dd.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Kavaj
Den napolitanska kavajen – konstruerad, l\u00e4tt och elegant. Foto: Gabucci<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Vincenzos nya stil blev popul\u00e4r med stilikoner som regiss\u00f6ren Vittorio De Sica och sk\u00e5despelaren Marcello Mastroianni. Hertigen av Windsor ska ha blivit s\u00e5 imponerad av Vincenzos skapelse att han ska ha stoppat en man mitt p\u00e5 torget p\u00e5 Capri f\u00f6r att fr\u00e5ga vem som gjort hans kostym.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cesare Attolini <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Vincenzo fick sex barn, varav sonen Cesare visade den st\u00f6rsta fallenheten f\u00f6r skr\u00e4dderiet. Han uppfann p\u00e5 1960-talet det system, liknande ett l\u00f6pande band fast f\u00f6r kostymer, som idag anv\u00e4nds  \u00e4ven hos t.ex. Kiton. Cesare jobbade ocks\u00e5 f\u00f6r flera andra varum\u00e4rken, t.ex. ISAIA, innan han \u00e5terv\u00e4nde till sina r\u00f6tter och tog \u00f6ver familjens skr\u00e4dderi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Cesare
Cesare Attolini med en av sina kavajer. Foto: Cesare Attolini<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Idag har Cesare Attolini ca 130 skr\u00e4ddare i Casalnuovo, som producerar ca 50 plagg per dag. Man arbetar fortfarande enligt systemet Cesare skapade, d\u00e4r varje skr\u00e4ddare \u00e4r specialist p\u00e5 ett av stegen i tillverkningen. Alla moment, fr\u00e5n tillsk\u00e4rning till s\u00f6mnad, g\u00f6rs fortfarande f\u00f6r hand. En kostym tar d\u00e4rf\u00f6r ca 30 timmar att skapa. \u00c4ven om priserna \u00e4r astronomiska – mellan 40.000 och 50.000 kronor f\u00f6r en kostym – \u00e4r det \u00e4nd\u00e5 inte dyrt sett till tiden det tar att skapa plagget och materialen som anv\u00e4nds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cesare Attolini leds nu av Cesares s\u00f6ner, Massimiliano och Giuseppe Attolini. Fram till sin d\u00f6d fortsatte \u00e4ven Cesare vara v\u00e4ldigt engagerad i verksamheten. En annan son, Vincenzo, startade sitt eget Stile Latino med en n\u00e5got mer modern och figursydd stil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Den napolitanska stilen som farfar Vincenzo en g\u00e5ng skapat har fortsatt att utvecklas och f\u00f6rfinas, med detaljer som rullande slag, b\u00e5tfickan, skjortaxeln och mycket mer. Attolini och Rubinacci har \u00f6ver tiden f\u00e5tt s\u00e4llskap av \u201cnya\u201d tillverkare som Kiton, ISAIA, Orazio Luciano och Barba Napoli. Och staden Neapel har \u00e5terf\u00e5tt sin position som skr\u00e4ddare \u00e5t Europas \u00f6verklass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Klassiskt Attolini – en okonstruerad kavaj med rullande slag ”3-on-2”, b\u00e5tficka och skjortaxel. Foto: Cesare Attolini<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Den 25 november n\u00e5ddes herrmodev\u00e4rlden av den sorgliga nyheten att Cesare Attolini, en legend inom herrmode, avlidit.  Cesare Attolini var andra generationen Attolini, och…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":68863,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_oct_exclude_from_cache":false,"_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[526,24],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-68862","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-herrklader","category-stilguiden","post-item","post-even"],"yoast_head":"\nCesare Attolini och den napolitanska stilen - Gentlemannaguiden<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Vi ber\u00e4ttar historian om hur huset Cesare Attolini skapade den napolitanska stilen och \u00e5ter satte Neapels skr\u00e4ddare p\u00e5 v\u00e4rldskartan\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, 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