{"id":69208,"date":"2024-12-23T10:35:42","date_gmt":"2024-12-23T09:35:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gentlemannaguiden.com\/?p=69208"},"modified":"2024-12-23T10:40:20","modified_gmt":"2024-12-23T09:40:20","slug":"allt-om-smokingen-och-dess-historia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gentlemannaguiden.com\/allt-om-smokingen-och-dess-historia\/","title":{"rendered":"Smokingens historia"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\n

In a tuxedo, I’m a star. In regular clothes, I’m a nobody.<\/p>\nDean Martin<\/cite><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Smoking, tuxedo, dinner jacket, black tie – k\u00e4rt barn har m\u00e5nga namn. Inget plagg \u00e4r nog mer associerat med gentlemannen \u00e4n smokingen idag. Medan dess f\u00f6reg\u00e5ngare, som fracken och jacketten, f\u00f6rpassats till ett f\u00e5tal tillf\u00e4llen, s\u00e5 har smokingen beh\u00e5llt sin relevans sedan den uppfanns 1865.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Smokingens fascinerande historia tar den fr\u00e5n r\u00f6krummet till kunglig casual, f\u00f6r att av en slump sl\u00e5 igenom i USA och sluta upp p\u00e5 sin nuvarande plats som gentlemannens festplagg nummer ett. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

F\u00f6lj med oss p\u00e5 en tur genom smokingens mer \u00e4n 100 \u00e5r!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Smoking, dinner jacket, tuxedo – lite om begreppen<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"klassisk
Dinner jacket av traditionellt snitt fr\u00e5n skaparna Henry Poole<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

F\u00f6r att inte ber\u00e4ttelsen ska bli alltf\u00f6r f\u00f6rvirrande f\u00e5r vi b\u00f6rja med att ta itu med begreppen. Det vi i Sverige och m\u00e5nga andra europeiska l\u00e4nder kallar smoking<\/em> \u00e4r n\u00e4mligen inte det ”r\u00e4tta” namnet. Smoking \u00e4r en f\u00f6renkling av smoking suit<\/em>, och har som vi snart ska ber\u00e4tta med plaggets historia att g\u00f6ra. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I ursprungslandet Storbritannien \u00e4r det ist\u00e4llet dinner suit<\/em> som g\u00e4ller. F\u00f6r att g\u00f6ra saker och ting v\u00e4rre kallas samma sak tuxedo<\/em> i USA. Kl\u00e4dkoden black tie<\/em> \u00e4r samma \u00f6verallt, och betyder allts\u00e5 att m\u00e4n f\u00f6rv\u00e4ntas b\u00e4ra smoking, dinner suit eller tuxedo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Henry Poole skapar smokingen<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Smokingen f\u00f6ddes 1865. Att vi vet det s\u00e5 s\u00e4kert beror p\u00e5 att det \u00e5ret best\u00e4ller Albert Edward, prins av Wales, en dinner suit<\/em> fr\u00e5n Henry Poole p\u00e5 Saville Row. Smokingjackan var enkelkn\u00e4ppt med sjalkrage och tillverkade i midnattsbl\u00e5 silke, och till det gjordes ett par byxor i matchande material. Den 24-\u00e5rige kronprinsen g\u00f6r det h\u00e4r av den enkla anledningen att han vill ha n\u00e5got avslappnat att b\u00e4ra p\u00e5 middagar med v\u00e4nner vid Sandringham House<\/a>. Best\u00e4llningen finns kvar i Henry Pooles arkiv och det \u00e4r d\u00e4rf\u00f6r vi vet s\u00e5 s\u00e4kert.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"den
En ung Albert Edward, blivande kung Edward VII<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

F\u00f6r 2020-talets m\u00e4n kanske den h\u00e4r best\u00e4llningen inte l\u00e5ter s\u00e5 revolutionerande. Men den viktorianska eran pr\u00e4glades av en v\u00e4ldigt konservativ syn p\u00e5 kl\u00e4der. Varje gentleman f\u00f6rv\u00e4ntades b\u00e4ra dress coat<\/em> – en frack, helt enkelt, med alla dess tillbeh\u00f6r – efter middag, oavsett om man v\u00e4ntade g\u00e4ster eller inte. P\u00e5 dagen bar man en normalt morning coat<\/em> (jackett), frock coat<\/em> (l\u00e5ngkavaj eller bonjour) eller nymodigheten, lounge suit<\/em> (ett slags tidig 3-delad kostym), b\u00e4st l\u00e4mpad f\u00f6r informella sammanhang som promenader.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Frock
Klassiska herrkl\u00e4der i slutet av 1800-talet: Frock coat, morning coat och lounge suit.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Den enda utsv\u00e4vningen skedde i r\u00f6krummet. Att r\u00f6ka tobak hade blivit popul\u00e4rt i England efter Krim-kriget. Efter middagen var det brukligt att m\u00e4nnen tog en cigarr eller pipa. F\u00f6r att skydda de fina kl\u00e4derna fr\u00e5n aska s\u00e5 bar man smoking jackets<\/em>, r\u00f6krockar. De hade utvecklats fr\u00e5n l\u00e5nga rockar i silke, robe de chambre<\/em>, till en kortare jacka i sammet eller ull. H\u00e4r kunde gentlemannen fortfarande excellera med sp\u00e4nnande f\u00e4rger och m\u00f6nster, g\u00e4rna med en matchande hatt till.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"smoking
Vackert dekorerad smoking jacket med sjalkrage – smokingens f\u00f6reg\u00e5ngare. Foto: MoMa <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\n

[The smoking jacket is] a kind of short robe de chambre, of velvet, cashmere, plush, merino or printed flannel, lined with bright colours, ornamented with brandenbourgs, olives or large buttons.\u201d<\/p>\nGentleman’s magazine, 1850<\/cite><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Det var troligen en smoking jacket<\/em>, men formellt sydd, som var utg\u00e5ngspunkten f\u00f6r Albert Edwards dinner jacket<\/em>. Ist\u00e4llet f\u00f6r att dra \u00f6ver en smoking jacket vid r\u00f6kningen och sedan tag av den till maten, best\u00e4llde den unge mannen en jacka som b\u00e5de gick att r\u00f6ka och dinera i.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Det finns myter om att smokingen skulle tillkommit genom att man helt enkelt klippte av sk\u00f6rten p\u00e5 en frack f\u00f6r att sitta bekv\u00e4mare. Det kan enkelt avf\u00e4rdas genom att prova p\u00e5 en frack – resultatet blir snarare en midjejacka \u00e4n en smokingjacka.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tuxedo Park och Black Tie<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

N\u00e4sta steg i smokingens historia togs 1886. D\u00e5 bes\u00f6kte kaffemiljon\u00e4ren James Brown Potter och hans fru Cora England, och tr\u00e4ffade prinsen p\u00e5 en bal. Kronprisen, alltid med ett \u00f6ga f\u00f6r vackra damer, bj\u00f6d in Potter och hans fru p\u00e5 middag. N\u00e4r Potter fr\u00e5gade vad han skulle ha p\u00e5 sig tipsade prinsen honom om att v\u00e4nda sig till Henry Poole f\u00f6r att sy upp en dinner suit. Potter tog med sin dinner suit till Amerika och nystartade Tuxedo Park, en country club utanf\u00f6r New York.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"tuxedo
Tuxedo Park Country Club. Foto: Tuxedo Park<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Hur smokingen spred sig vidare finns det m\u00e5nga historier om. Kanske var det n\u00e4r s\u00f6nerna till Tuxedo Parks herrar intog den traditionella h\u00f6stbalen 1886 i sina engelska dinner suits, eller n\u00e4r herrarna fr\u00e5n Tuxedo Park en dag begav sig till New York f\u00f6r middag? <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

The other diners at Dell\u2019s were astonished, and when they asked what it was the men in short coats had on, they were told, \u201cOh that is what they wear for dinner up in Tuxedo\u201d. <\/em><\/p>\nUtdrag ur Tuxedo Parks arkiv<\/cite><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Fr\u00e5n att ha varit ett informellt plagg – n\u00e5got f\u00f6r en middag bland v\u00e4nner – spreds smokingen nu som en ers\u00e4ttare till fracken. P\u00e5 modeillustrationer fr\u00e5n den Viktorianska eran (1837-1901) ser man klart hur dominerande fracken \u00e4nnu var som aftonkl\u00e4dsel f\u00f6r mannen. N\u00e4r man sedan f\u00f6rflyttar sig till den Edvardianska tidseran (1901-1910) ser man hur smokingen b\u00f6rjar bli vanligare. N\u00e5gonstans p\u00e5 v\u00e4gen byttes den vita flugan till en svart, kanske f\u00f6r att markera skillnaden mellan frack och smoking, white tie<\/em> och black tie<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Den klassiska smokingen f\u00e5r sin form<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"smokingar
Den klassiska smokingen i tv\u00e5 varianter fr\u00e5n 1898: med spetsiga slag respektive sjalkrage. Foto: Wikimedia Commons.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

1900-talets b\u00f6rjan fram till andra v\u00e4rldskriget var smokingens h\u00f6jdpunkt. Fr\u00e5n att ha varit ett plagg man bara kunde bli sedd i hemma blev det standarden f\u00f6r v\u00e4lkl\u00e4dda kv\u00e4llar. Fracken f\u00f6rpassades till baler, formella middagar och operan, d\u00e4r den stannat till idag.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

To a man who can not afford to get two suits of evening clothes, the Tuxedo is of greater importance. It is worn every evening and nearly everywhere, whereas the tailcoat is necessary only at balls, formal dinners, and in a box at the opera.<\/p>\nEmily Post’s Etiquette, 1922<\/cite><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Under slutet av 1800-talet och b\u00f6rjan av 1900-talet f\u00e4rdigst\u00e4lldes smokingen som vi b\u00e4r den formellt \u00e4nnu idag.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Smokingjackan<\/strong> eller smokingkavajen \u00e4r svart eller midnattsbl\u00e5 i borstad ull. Den har ursprungligen sjalkrage och \u00e4r enkelkn\u00e4ppt, men inspiration fr\u00e5n kostymmodet inneb\u00e4r att smokingjackor med spetsiga slag tidigt blir popul\u00e4ra. Slagen eller sjalkragen \u00e4r kl\u00e4dda med sat\u00e4ng eller grosgrain. Smokingjackan saknar sprund och har passpoalfickor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Smokingbyxorna<\/strong> \u00e4r tillverkade i samma material som jackan och har en eller flera band, rev\u00e4rer, i silke p\u00e5 sidorna. De b\u00e4rs h\u00f6gt med h\u00e4ngslen och har inga slag.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

V\u00e4sten<\/strong>, l\u00e5gt skuren och i samma material som smokingen, anv\u00e4nds f\u00f6r att t\u00e4cka midjan. G\u00f6rdeln<\/strong>, cummerbund<\/em>, var ett alternativ som inspirerades av ett plagg som bars av indiska soldater.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Skjortan<\/strong> \u00e4r vit och har ett st\u00e4rkt skjortbr\u00f6st, antingen plisserat (veckat) eller i pik\u00e9. Den saknar fastsydda knappar – ist\u00e4llet har den br\u00f6stknappar (studs)<\/em> och manschettknappar. Den klassiska kragen \u00e4r uppvikt – s.k. snibbkrage – men \u00e4ven en klassisk skjortkrage godtas f\u00f6r mindre formella sammanhang.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Flugan<\/strong> matchar materialet p\u00e5 smokingens krage eller slag, och knyts f\u00f6r hand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Skorna<\/strong> \u00e4r svarta och glansiga, f\u00f6r att matcha smokingens andra delar, och b\u00e4rs med svarta, l\u00e5nga strumpor. Modellen var ursprungligen pumps<\/em>, skor utan sn\u00f6rning och f\u00f6rsedda med sp\u00e4nnen eller rosetter. Under tidigt 1900-talet blir oxford-skon i lackat patentl\u00e4der allt mer popul\u00e4r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bland accessoarerna<\/strong> finns den obligatoriska vita n\u00e4sduken och ett diskret fickur eller armbandsur. Dandyn b\u00e4r en blomma, boutonni\u00e8re, i knapph\u00e5let – en tradition med mycket \u00e4ldre r\u00f6tter \u00e4n smokingen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Moderna varianter<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"vit
P\u00e5 1930-talet blev den vita smokingen popul\u00e4r i varmare klimat<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Under de senaste 100 \u00e5ren har den formella varianten av smoking inte f\u00f6r\u00e4ndrats mycket. Men i popul\u00e4rkulturen och modet har den genomg\u00e5tt otaliga varianter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

N\u00e4r smokingen spreds fr\u00e5n kalla England till varmare breddgrader uppstod behovet av ett svalare alternativ. P\u00e5 1930-talet b\u00f6rjade man experimentera med ljusa versioner av dinner jackets gjorda av tunn ull eller linne. Den st\u00e4rkta skjortan byttes mot en vanlig kostymskjorta med nedvikt krage. V\u00e4sten byttes mot en svalare cummerbund i silke, eller s\u00e5 valde man dubbelkn\u00e4ppt. Den h\u00e4r varianten slog igenom inte minst genom Humphrey Bogart i Casablanca.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

N\u00e4r f\u00e4rg-tabut v\u00e4l sl\u00e4ppt s\u00e5 gick det snabbt. Under efterkrigstiden och de rebelliska 60- och 70-talen ifr\u00e5gasattes alla gamla konventioner. Pastellf\u00e4rger, metallf\u00e4rger, m\u00f6nster och kr\u00e5sskjortor var bara n\u00e5gra av alla varianter som passade f\u00f6rbi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"smoking
Frack a la 1974 – m\u00f6nstrad sammet och stor fluga. Foto: Jours de France<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Men trots alla dessa f\u00f6rs\u00f6k att omdefiniera smokingen s\u00e5 st\u00e5r den sig v\u00e4ldigt bra. Designers som Tom Ford och stilikoner som James Bond har med stor respekt f\u00f6r smokingens arv tagit den med in i 2000-talet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"James
James Bond har troget fortsatt att k\u00e4mpa f\u00f6r smokingens relevans. H\u00e4r i klassiskt snitt men utan v\u00e4st eller g\u00f6rdel fr\u00e5n 2006.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In a tuxedo, I’m a star. In regular clothes, I’m a nobody. Dean Martin Smoking, tuxedo, dinner jacket, black tie – k\u00e4rt barn har…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":69229,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_oct_exclude_from_cache":false,"_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[24],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-69208","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stilguiden","post-item","post-even"],"yoast_head":"\nSmokingens historia - Gentlemannaguiden<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Smokingens fascinerande historia tar den fr\u00e5n r\u00f6krummet till kunglig casual f\u00f6r att sluta upp som gentlemannens festplagg nummer ett.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/gentlemannaguiden.com\/allt-om-smokingen-och-dess-historia\/\" \/>\n<meta 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