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H\u00f6gtider \u00e4r smokingtider – det \u00e4r sedan gammalt. Fast smokingen b\u00f6rjade som ett avslappnat alternativ till fracken f\u00f6r middagar v\u00e4nner emellan \u00e4r det sedan 100 \u00e5r mer f\u00f6rknippat med fina fester. F\u00f6rutom i akademin \u00e4r kl\u00e4dkod smoking<\/a> ofta s\u00e5 uppkl\u00e4tt det blir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Just den d\u00e4r ovanligheten – smokingen \u00e4r inget vardagsplagg – g\u00f6r att det ibland kan k\u00e4nnas sv\u00e5rt. Det \u00e4r ett faktum och inget att sk\u00e4mmas \u00f6ver att inte alla vet hur man b\u00e4r en smoking. Det \u00e4r d\u00e4rf\u00f6r den h\u00e4r guiden existerar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Traditionell smokingskjorta med vingkrage<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"smokingskjorta
Klassisk ensemble med vit smokingskjorta med vingkrage fr\u00e5n Eton<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

F\u00f6r en traditionell stil passar skjorta med vingkrage<\/em> bra, allts\u00e5 en st\u00e5ende krage med nedvikta snibbar. Ursprungligen var kragen l\u00f6s och f\u00e4stes med knappar, men nu \u00e4r den ofta fastsydd. Br\u00f6stet kan vara antingen enkelt eller plisserat (veckat) som p\u00e5 bilden ovan – b\u00e5de \u00e4r egentligen lika klassiska och det \u00e4r fr\u00e4mst en smakfr\u00e5ga.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Skjortan kan ha 1-3 l\u00f6sa knappar. Dessa kan man k\u00f6pa separat, men de brukar ocks\u00e5 f\u00f6lja med. Knapparna kan vara i guld, silver, platinum eller i n\u00e5gon sten – svart onyx harmoniserar s\u00e4rskilt bra med de \u00f6vriga svarta detaljerna. Matcha g\u00e4rna manschettknapparnas material med skjortknapparna.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Br\u00f6stet p\u00e5 en smokingskjorta \u00e4r inte l\u00e4ngre st\u00e4rkt, men det vackra, fylliga tyget i pike eller Marcella-v\u00e4v skapar \u00e4nd\u00e5 ett v\u00e4ldigt elegant utseende.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Modern smokingskjorta<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"modern
Modernare smokingskjorta med cutaway-krage fr\u00e5n Eton<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Den moderna, mer avslappnade stilen som hertigen av Windsor inf\u00f6rde blev dominerande p\u00e5 1930-talet. \u00c4ven om det allts\u00e5 ser v\u00e4ldigt modernt ut \u00e4r det allts\u00e5 en stil med n\u00e4stan 100 \u00e5r under b\u00e4ltet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Skillnaden sitter fr\u00e4mst i kragen, som nu \u00e4r utbytt till en klassisk skjortkrage. Du kan fortfarande beh\u00e5lla en klassisk stil med skjortbr\u00f6st, eller g\u00e5 ytterligare ett steg och anv\u00e4nda vanliga knappar ist\u00e4llet f\u00f6r studs. D\u00e5 passar en t\u00e4ckt knappsl\u00e5<\/em> bra, d\u00e4r skjortknapparna d\u00f6ljs bakom knappsl\u00e5ns tyg s\u00e5 att br\u00f6stet \u00e4nd\u00e5 blir v\u00e4ldigt rent. Resultatet blir en smokingskjorta som ser ut som en vanlig skjorta – bra om du k\u00e4nner f\u00f6r att kasta av dig kavajen och sl\u00e4ppa loss p\u00e5 dansgolvet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"smokingskjorta
Smokingskjorta med dold knappsl\u00e5 – fr\u00e5n Stenstr\u00f6ms<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Den alternativa smokingskjortan<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Ryan
Ryan Gosling utmanar med en kr\u00e5sskjorta med kr\u00e5s p\u00e5 Oscarsgalan 2017.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ska du l\u00e4mna de etablerade stilarna g\u00e4ller det att h\u00e5lla tungan r\u00e4tt i mun. Det \u00e4r l\u00e4ttare att landa som br\u00f6llopss\u00e5ngare eller ton\u00e5ring p\u00e5 bal \u00e4n att landa r\u00e4tt. Ett alternativ kan vara att prova en skjorta med en annorlunda v\u00e4v, eller med detaljer i kontrasterande tyg?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Eton White Jacquard Shirt – fr\u00e5n Etonshirts.com<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Inget s\u00e4ger att en smokingskjorta m\u00e5ste se ut p\u00e5 ett s\u00e4tt, annat \u00e4n traditionen. Smokingens historia<\/a> b\u00f6rjade just som ett uppror mot konventionerna. Allting handlar om att f\u00f6rst\u00e5 situationen. \u00c4r du inbjuden p\u00e5 ett br\u00f6llop i New York med kl\u00e4dkod black tie<\/a>, eller vill du bara kl\u00e4 upp dig lite p\u00e5 extra p\u00e5 en vanlig fest?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

Smokingskjortan och dess historia<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Ett urval av stilar f\u00f6r gentlem\u00e4n fr\u00e5n 1890-talet. Notera blandningen av raka imperial collars<\/em> och vingkragar<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

F\u00f6r att f\u00f6rst\u00e5 varf\u00f6r smokingskjortan ser ut som den g\u00f6r f\u00e5r vi resa tillbaka till smokingens barndom i mitten av 1800-talet. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

En smokingskjorta var fr\u00e5n b\u00f6rjan bara en skjorta<\/em> – samma skjorta som bars till frack och som en v\u00e4lkl\u00e4dd man bar stora delar av dygnet i olika konfigurationer. En krispigt vit skjorta var ett tecken p\u00e5 klass, f\u00f6r hur skulle n\u00e5gon enkel bonde eller arbetare kunna h\u00e5lla skjortan vit och ren?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Skjortan var ocks\u00e5 en del av underkl\u00e4derna. Till skillnad fr\u00e5n idag ans\u00e5gs det inte l\u00e4mpligt att n\u00e5got annat \u00e4n manschetter, krage och lite av skjortbr\u00f6stet skymtade fram. D\u00e4rifr\u00e5n kom ocks\u00e5 modet att st\u00e4rka upp dessa delar s\u00e5 att de skulle se s\u00e4rskilt imponerande ut. En av 1800-talets uppfinningar var skjortor med l\u00f6s krage, skjortbr\u00f6st och manschetter som kunde tv\u00e4ttas och st\u00e4rkas oftare \u00e4n resten av skjortan. F\u00f6r att f\u00e4sta dessa detaljer i det tjocka, st\u00e4rkta tyget beh\u00f6vdes ocks\u00e5 l\u00f6sa knappar, studs<\/em>. Br\u00f6stet var antingen enkelt<\/em>, dvs. utan dekorationer, eller plisserat<\/em>, dvs. veckat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Marcella-tyget inspirerades av v\u00e4vda tyger fr\u00e5n Marseille och blev vanligt p\u00e5 engelska smokingskjortor. Bild: Acorn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

En traditionell smokingskjorta har en vingkrage – ett slags st\u00e5ende krage d\u00e4r snibbarna pressats ner i sm\u00e5 ”vingar” – och dubbelmanschett som kn\u00e4pps med manschettknappar. Medan b\u00e5de kragar och manschetter funnits l\u00e4nge var just dessa varianter nymodigheter under den viktorianska eran. Den st\u00e5ende kragen populariserades av politikern William Gladstone som bar sina faderm\u00f6rdare<\/a><\/em> med ett l\u00e4tt nedvik, kanske f\u00f6r att undvika olyckor n\u00e4r man stack sig p\u00e5 de st\u00e4rkta snibbarna? Dubbelmanschetterna, eller french cuffs<\/em>, var en modetrend som Alexander Dumas topps\u00e4ljare De tre musket\u00f6rerna<\/em> och Greven av Monte Cristo<\/em> ska ha introducerat. N\u00e5gonstans tidigt uppstod ocks\u00e5 trenden med att anv\u00e4nda sofistikerade bomullstyger – i England Marcella<\/em>, en v\u00e4v inspirerad av franska tyger fr\u00e5n Marseille, och i USA pik\u00e9. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Under 1900-talets b\u00f6rjan gjordes de sista moderniseringarna av smokingskjortan. Stilikonen hertigen av Windsor (Edward VIII) gjorde uppror mot de h\u00e5rda kragarna och b\u00f6rjade b\u00e4ra nedvikta, mjuka kragar. Flugan, som tidigare burits under kragen, placerades nu oftast utanp\u00e5 kragen f\u00f6r att spela en mer framtr\u00e4dande roll.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Hertigen av Windsor (Edward VIII) populariserade den mjuka skjortan med nedvikt krage och dubbelmanschetter till smoking<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

H\u00f6gtider \u00e4r smokingtider – det \u00e4r sedan gammalt. Fast smokingen b\u00f6rjade som ett avslappnat alternativ till fracken f\u00f6r middagar v\u00e4nner emellan \u00e4r det sedan…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":69428,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_oct_exclude_from_cache":false,"_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[526,24],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-69387","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-herrklader","category-stilguiden","post-item","post-even"],"yoast_head":"\nTre snygga smokingskjortor: S\u00e5 v\u00e4ljer du r\u00e4tt - Gentlemannaguiden<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Smokingskjorta \u00e4r ett av mannens mest klassiska plagg, men att v\u00e4lja r\u00e4tt \u00e4r inte helt l\u00e4tt. 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